Surfing

Imagine floating in the big, blue water. The sun feels warm on your face. A little wave comes, whoosh. It lifts you up and carries you. You feel the cool spray splash on your cheeks as you glide, glide, glide all the way to the sandy shore. It feels like you are dancing with the ocean. Do you know who helps you dance like that? It's me. I am Surfing. I am the happy feeling of riding a wave.

A long, long, long time ago, even before your grandparents were born, I was playing with people in a sunny place called Polynesia. That was way back in the 12th century. In a beautiful place with big volcanoes called Hawaii, kings and queens loved me the most. They would find the biggest, tallest waves and ride them to show everyone how brave they were. It was a royal ride. Then, a man on a big boat named Captain James Cook came to visit on October 18th, 1778. He saw people riding on the waves with me and thought, "Wow." He wrote all about me in his book so people far away could learn about the fun.

For a while, I was a special secret in Hawaii. But then, a man who swam like a friendly fish came to share me with the world. His name was Duke Kahanamoku, and in the early 20th century, he traveled to new beaches. He would stand on his board and ride the waves with a big smile. Everyone saw how much fun it was and wanted to try. Now, I help people all over the world play in the ocean. I help them feel the sunshine and the water and be happy together in the big, beautiful sea.