Bethany Hamilton

Aloha. My name is Bethany Hamilton, and my story starts on the beautiful island of Kauai, Hawaii. Growing up, the ocean felt like my second home. The warm sun, the salty air, and the sound of the waves were a part of my everyday life. My whole family loved to surf, so it felt natural for me to love it, too. I learned to balance on a board almost as soon as I could walk. By the time I was eight years old in 1998, I started entering surf competitions. The feeling of gliding across a big wave was the best feeling in the world. More than anything, I dreamed of becoming a professional surfer when I grew up.

On the morning of October 31st, 2003, the day everything changed, the sky was clear and the water was perfect for surfing. I was thirteen years old and went out on the water with my best friend, Alana, and her family. I was lying on my surfboard with my left arm dangling in the cool water, just waiting for the next set of waves. Suddenly, there was a flash of gray and a lot of pressure. I felt a sharp tug, but it happened so fast that it didn't even hurt at first. When I looked down, I was in shock to see that my arm was gone. A tiger shark had attacked me. My friends acted quickly and bravely. They used a surfboard leash to stop the bleeding and paddled me back to shore as fast as they could. Their courage, along with my family's help, rushed me to the hospital and saved my life that day.

My time in the hospital was challenging, and I had to learn how to do many everyday things all over again with only one arm. Simple tasks like tying my shoes or cutting food were suddenly difficult. But through all the doctor's visits and recovery, one question kept popping into my head: 'When can I surf again?'. My love for the ocean was stronger than my fear. Just one month after the attack, I decided it was time to get back on my board. My dad, Tom, helped me by creating a special handle on my surfboard that I could use to grip the board and push myself up while paddling for a wave. I remember paddling out into the water, feeling a mix of nerves and excitement. When I caught my first wave, it was the most incredible feeling. I knew right then that I would not let this challenge stop me from doing what I loved.

Getting back on my board was one thing, but competing was another. I started training hard and entered my first competition again in January 2004. I had to surf differently, but my determination was stronger than ever. In 2005, I achieved a huge goal when I won a national surfing championship. It proved to me and to everyone else that anything was possible. Then, in 2007, my biggest childhood dream came true when I officially became a professional surfer. My story seemed to inspire a lot of people, so in 2004, I wrote a book about my experience called 'Soul Surfer'. It shared my journey of faith and perseverance. Later, in 2011, my book was turned into a movie, which allowed my story to reach even more people all over the world.

My life today is full of joy. I am still a professional surfer, traveling the world and riding some of the most amazing waves. But now, I have other wonderful titles, too. I am a wife to my husband, Adam, and a mother to my amazing children. My experiences led me to start a foundation called Friends of Bethany Hamilton. Through my foundation, I get to help and inspire other people who have lost limbs or faced other big challenges in their lives. I have learned that with faith and the love of your family, you can overcome anything. My story is proof that you should never, ever give up on your dreams, no matter how big the waves in your life might seem.